Japanese Aralia

Japanese aralia (or fatsia japonica) is a shade-loving evergreen which adds an exciting bold tropical look to the landscape.  It is great in shaded entryways or patio spaces, as well as for containers or even as houseplants.  It produces white flowers in late winter which are followed by black berries.  It is a moderate grower, growing from 5 to 8 feet tall and 5 to 8 feet wide.

Posted on: 2 May 2013 | 11:36 pm

Aucuba

This evergreen shrub is a great plant for shade, brightening up an otherwise dark spot.  It adds interest in an area that does not have enough light for most flowering plants and is one of the easiest plants to grow in our north central Texas area. While many evergreen plants stretch and grow lanky in the shade, aucuba loves it.  Take care with its placement, however, because it does not like any sun at all - even winter sun will burn the leaves. Aucuba does well when planted under large trees and also does quite well in containers.Aucuba's flowers are insignificant; however, the green form has bright red berries in the fall.  They hang under the foliage so they are not easy to see.  Female plants do not produce fruit unless a  male plant is in the neighborhood.  The variegated leaf form provides continuous color interest.It's average size is between 4 to 8 feet tall by 3 to 4 feet wide, and its growth rate is considered slow to medium.  The leaves are 3 to 4 inches wide by 6 to 8 inches long.  They are oval with a pointed tip.  Aucuba leaves are either solid green or variegated in yellow and green.Plant aucuba with other shade-loving plants, such as ferns, hostas, mondo grass, and heucheras (coral bells).  This will produce a woodland look, especially under trees. They require medium watering after establishment.  They like water once or twice a week during their growing season, depending upon their environment.  If planted in deep shade, they have been known to hold up fairly well with no irrigation after proper establishment.From containers, aucuba can be planted at any time.  However, fall is best because they establish more easily in cooler weather.  Space them 4 to 5 feet on center, measuring from the center of each plant.  They may be planted closer in containers.Aucuba grows fairly slowly, so it requires very little trimming.  Just a touch up every 2 to 3 years in the fall or early spring should suffice.  Be sure to remove any dead branches whenever you trim it.Fertilize these plants at planting time and each spring with a timed-release product.  Less fertilizer is needed with the application of more organics. 

Posted on: 23 April 2013 | 11:37 pm

Iris

Iris are glamorous plants that are easy to grow in Texas, if you choose the correct ones.  There are thousands of different choices, and they are great plants to collect.  They score highly because of their ease of care.Although they bloom for only a short period of time, the visual impact of the blooms, coupled with their ease of care, make them definitely worthwhile.  The most difficult part is choosing the correct one for your garden because there are thousands available.  The Fort Worth Botanic Garden features a collection of different types of irises.  The ones listed below do well in Texas:Bearded Iris "Sarah Taylor"- Bearded irises have a fuzzy spot on their petals that looks like a pipe cleaner.  These grow 8 to 24 inches tall and often bloom for years with little care except for regular feeding.  However, do not overwater them because this one likes to be on the dry side.  These are more susceptible to iris borer (explained later) than the other varieties.Dutch Iris - Dutch irises perform well in north central Texas and also make great cut flowers.  They grow 18 to 22 inches tall and create a formal look in beds.  They come in an array of beautiful colors.Japanese Iris "Goldbound" - These are the largest flowers of all irises and also the last to bloom.  They require full sun, acidic soil, and ample water.  Their average size is 2 to 4 feet tall.  Plant the rhizomes 2 inches deep in fall or spring.Louisiana Iris "James Dickenson" - These irises thrive when given ample moisture and acid soil.  They are a top choice for growing near or even in water or in low places where few other flowers are happy.  They are evergreen in most of Texas and grow 3 to 5 feet tall.Siberian Iris "Butter and Sugar" - These  irises resemble Louisiana irises, but the plants and flowers are smaller.  They prefer moist and acidic soil.  They grow from 1 to 3 feet tall and have fewer pests than the other varieties mentioned.    Most irises are evergreen perennials; however, some are deciduous and lose their leaves in winter.  Most bloom early to late spring for about two weeks, depending upon the variety.  Most of the irises are now blooming in my neighborhood.  A few will even re-bloom in the fall.Their sizes range from tiny (4 inches tall) to tall (5 feet tall).  Most are from 18 to 24 inches tall and range from 6 to 18 inches wide.  Leaves are green to greenish-blue, flat, and sword-shaped.  Flowers are exotic, open blossoms with some petals curving down and others curving upward.  Flowers include blue, white, yellow, pink, purple, or many blends and bicolors.  Not only are there thousands of irises on the market, hundreds more appear each year.  Local garden centers are good sources of information on the irises they sell.  Also, online suppliers are in abundance.Irises require light shade to full sun.  Water requirements are medium for most, but Louisiana iris needs more moisture and can even be grown in shallow water.  Avoid overwatering other irises, however, because root rot can result.  Most require fertile, well-drained soil that has been enriched with organic matter.  Louisiana iris, however, requires acid soil.Iris borer can seriously damage bearded iris rhizomes.  Affected plants are weak, bloom poorly, and have holes in their roots.  Treat them with the least toxic pesticide available.  Another problem is root rot caused by overwatering, mulch, or burying the rhizomes too deeply.Spacing of irises will vary with the type.  Set rhizomes of bearded iris at least 8 inches apart.  Closer spacing is better with other types of iris which grow into dense clumps whenever set 3 to 8 inches apart.Irises from containers can be planted at any time; however, fall is best because they establish more easily in cooler weather.  Plant rhizomes (bulbs) in early spring or in late summer.  Arrange the bulbs so the new leaf end is pointing up.  Plant bearded iris bulbs 1 inch deep, leaving the bulb partially exposed.Use scissors to cut away leaves or flower stems that turn brown.  Cut back near to the ground the foliage that dies back in the winter.Fertilize in early spring soon after new growth appears.  If plants are set out (or divided) in late summer, fertilize them again.Pictured below are irises that are planted behind my back fence next to the alley.  Perhaps you will notice a little friend on the fence, watching me taking the pictures (first picture of the white irises - fourth picture down).  He never moved as if he were posing for me.  I particularly love irises because they remind me of my childhood home (years 1-7), and I looked forward each spring for their beautiful blooms to appear.

Posted on: 14 April 2013 | 11:29 pm

Stock

Stock is a cool-weather annual that comes in a wealth of colors and varieties, all of which will compliment any garden.  It is best known for its spicy, sweet fragrance and as an excellent choice for flowerbeds and cut-flower arrangements.  Stock produces an abundance of flowers on long stems; however, they will only do so in cooler weather.  Depending upon the variety, stock can grow from about 12 inches tall to almost 3 feet, making it a versatile choice for any garden bed.  Use taller varieties towards the back of a design to add height, or use the smaller ones toward the front so you can better admire their scent and their wide range of colors.  Stock is available in shades of white, yellow, purple, pink, peach, and red.  While many varieties are single, having four petals per flower, some are double, giving them a softer, more ruffled appearance.  Two of the more popular double-flowered varieties are "Cinderella" (growing 10 inches tall) and "Legacy" (growing 2 feet tall).  A popular single-bloom variety is called "Starlight Scentsation" (growing 18 inches tall).Plant stock in spring several weeks before the last frost date.  This annual thrives in cool temperatures and stops blooming once hot weather arrives.  It will not form flower buds in temperatures higher than the mid-60s.  It will survive a light frost.  It is slightly spirelike and comes in a wide variety of colors as mentioned above.  It grows best in full sun or part shade and moist, well-drained soil.  Most varieties grow from 1-3 feet tall and 1-2 feet wide.Space these plants 7 to 12 inches apart.  They will tolerate a little crowding.  They prefer full sun, although they will tolerate a light shade.  Stock plants prefer rich, loose soil that drains well.  Add a general purpose fertilizer when planting them, then once a month after that.Once your stock plants are established, they should grow well with few problems.  Keep the soil moist to slightly dry.  Water them during dry periods, once or twice per week.  Keep them well weeded, or apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch for a tidy appearance.  They are an easy-to-grow annual.Pinch back the tips of seedlings to encourage thicker growth and more flower production.  Cut off flowers once they are done blooming to maintain a neat appearance.To use as cut flowers, cut stock whenever buds are halfway to two-thirds open.  Look for sturdy stems where the lower positioned flowers are not dried  out.  Remove any foliage from the stems that will be below the water line in the vase, then cut stems at a 45-degree angle and to the desired length.  Use a floral preservative and change the water regularly to keep the stems healthy.Insect and disease problems are not common.  Treat them with insecticide, repellents, or fungicides, if needed.

Posted on: 11 April 2013 | 10:11 pm

Heuchera (Coral Bells)

The genus, heuchera, was named after an 18th century German professor of medicine and botanist, Johann Heinrich von Heucher, who specialized in medicinal plants.  Although tangy and slightly astringent, the leaves may be used to liven up bland greens.  Natives of the Northwest U. S. used a tonic derived from heuchera roots to aid digestive difficulties.  The common name, "coral bells", is derived from the nodding, bell-shaped flowers.The foliage of most cultivars reaches 8 to 12 inches in height with a spread of 1 to 2 feet wide.  When blooming, the flower stalks reach 1 to 3 feet tall. With its colorful foliage, heuchera is the perfect perennial to brighten up any garden throughout the entire growing season.  Heuchera forms attractive basal mounds with heart-shaped, rounded, or triangular leaves which can be smooth, wavy, or ruffled.  The leaf coloration varies by cultivar, but mainly includes various hues of amber, bronze-green, green, gold, pink, purple, deep purple, and silver veined.  In many instances, the coloration of the leaves varies with the environment and often changes with the seasons.  In most locations, they are considered evergreen, as the foliage lasts throughout the year.  I have two pots sitting on my patio which are now three years old, being protected from the winter by covering them with only a sheet.  They produce clusters of cream to red-colored coral bell-shaped flowers on tall, wiry stems that rise above the basal foliage in the late spring.  Depending upon the cultivar, they bloom from a few weeks or throughout the entire season.  There are 50 to 70 species of heuchera, many of which are improved hybrid varieties showcasing various foliage colorations and flowering characteristics.Coral bells prefer to be planted in locations with a fertile, moist, well-drained soil.  Most cultivars will grow more vigorously and have the best leaf coloration whenever planted in locations with partial shade, particularly in the afternoon.  Purple-leafed cultivars can tolerate more direct sun.  In general, the darker the purple coloration, the more exposure to sun they can tolerate.  Conversely, the amber and gold-leafed cultivars are less sun tolerant.Coral bells are generally considered easy to grow, requiring little routine maintenance.  To encourage continuous flowering or repeat blooms, deadhead the spent flower spikes as needed.  Mulching during the summer months will help keep the soil moist and prevent injury to the shallow root system from heat.  They can be divided every 3 to 4 years if they lose vigor or when the crown gets too large.Generally, coral bells can be grown without any insect or disease problems.  Bacterial and fungal-leaf spots, Japanese beetles, powdery mildew may occur occasionally, but do not usually become a problem.  Some cultivars may get leaf scorch whenever they are planted in hot, full sun.  Overly wet conditions during the winter months can lead to some plants rotting out. When the climate fluctuates, frost heaving (where the plants push themselves up out of the ground) can be a concern;  however, mulching before winter may help prevent this problem.  Pruning the foliage back in early spring to make room for the new growth can help these plants stay in better form; however, it is not absolutely necessary.Heuchera are commonly used as accent or specimen plants, in woodland or rock gardens, and as groundcovers or mass plantings.  They are also commonly used in patio pots or as components in mixed containers.  They also attract butterflies and hummingbirds into the garden.  Consider using heuchera plants with other shade-loving plants such as ferns, hostas, or caladiums.With 50 to 70 cultivars from which to choose, you can certainly find several that particularly appeal to you.  Two of my favorites are:  "Southern Comfort" with huge cinnamon-peach leaves maturing to amber, forming a broad, lush clump and making a bold landscape statement; and,  "Lime Ricky" with bright golden and lime green leaves and snow-white flowers.  I have found that Monrovia Growers offers the biggest color selection of coral bells, plus their plants seem to be the most hardy.  Look for them at your local garden center.

Posted on: 9 April 2013 | 11:53 pm

Oxalis Shamrock Plant

Oxalis is often called a shamrock plant because it has three leaves like a shamrock.  There are many different species of this plant.  It is reasonably easy to grow and multiplies on its own for care-free propagation of this great perennial flowering plant.  I have even planted Oxalis in one pot and had it appear in other pots in close proximity on its own. In years past, the one I have planted most often is the purple shamrock with pale pink flowers.  However, I found another species recently at my local garden center that especially caught my eye called "Sunset Velvet".  This species has copper leaves infused with gold, fuchsia stems, and yellow flowers.  It thrives in partial sun or shade and is perfect in containers or baskets.  "Sunset Velvet" grows 6-8 inches tall with a spread of 12 inches.Oxalis is of the wood sorrel family and likes a shady area with rich soil.  It is a perennial and will propagate itself once it gets started. I have one pot of purple Oxalis which I have kept outdoors in the shade even through the winter by covering it if the temperature goes below freezing. Here in Central Texas we can grow shamrock plants as long as we plant them in the shade.  Prepare the soil with a trowel before trying to grow Oxalis shamrock plant.  Be sure the planting area is in the shade most of the day, and that the soil is rich with humus, mulch, and preferably decaying leaves.  Plant each little Oxalis shamrock plant separately in shallow soil, just to the top of the "carrot" part of the roots where the tender  plant begins.  Plant them just a few  inches apart to allow them to multiply and make a heavy grouping by spring.  Press the soil down and handle with care.  The Oxalis is a sensitive plant, and the leaves often close when touched.  It may droop for a few days, but with water and a little shade, it will perk up again.  The roots will not be damaged, and it should grow with a little encouragement.  Soak the area well initially and keep it damp throughout the growing season.  The plant will bloom in about two months.Trim the foliage whenever it turns yellow in the fall.  This means the plant is going into dormancy and will remain that way until spring.  Do not remove the blooms during the growing season.Oxalis can easily be grown outdoors in pots.  Fill the pot with good quality potting soil.  Four to five bulbs will fill an 8-inch pot.  Be sure the pot has a drainage hole.Along with the pictures of "Sunset Velvet" Oxalis, I have also included a picture at the bottom of the more familiar purple shamrock.  It is hard to believe these two plants are in the same family.  They both have shamrock-shaped leaves, but that is where the similarity stops.  The leaves of the "Sunset Velvet" are much smaller than the purple shamrock, and their coloring is entirely different.  However, both provide color to your garden that is pleasing to the eye.   

Posted on: 6 April 2013 | 11:22 pm

Southern Lady Pieris

The Pieris plant provides countless white flowers draping from the limbs like charms on a bracelet.  This upright evergreen shrub with spreading branches matures to 6-8 feet tall and 4-6 feet wide, displaying dense foliage in rosettes.  They are loaded with buds, so select yours now at your local garden center to enjoy the grand display for a special place in your landscape.The pieris are broad-leaved evergreen shrubs growing from 3-19 feet tall and 3-10 feet wide.  The leaves are spirally arranged, often appearing to be in whorls at the end of each shoot with bare stretches of shoot below.  The leaves are leathery textured with a serrated margin.  The young leaves in spring are typically brightly colored.  The flowers are bell-shaped, ranging from 0.2-0.6 inches long and are either white or pink.  The one pictured below (Southern Lady Pieris) has white flowers. The fruit is a woody capsule which splits into five sections to release the numerous small seeds.They are commonly grown as ornamental plants, valued for year-round interest due to bright red new growth in early spring, chains of small, white flowers in mid-spring, and buds that remain on the plant throughout the winter.  Numerous cultivars have been selected for different spring foliage color.  They grow best in shade or partial sun, sheltered from drying, winter winds.  They prefer acid soil and should be mulched once per year, using a 2-inch covering of either peat or composted pine needles.  The flowers give the plant one of its alternative names, Lily of the Valley shrub.To plant, moisten the soil in a container prior to digging a hole.  Dig a hole 3 inches deeper and twice as wide as the container.  Place a 3-inch layer of loosened soil in the bottom of the hole.  Fill the area around the root ball with loosened soil, but do not tamp down.  Form a basin around the original hole that will hold 2 inches of water.  Gently fill the basin with water.  Let settle, and add more soil.  Then water again.One of the great features of the pieris is the fact that it is hardy from 0 to -10 degrees F.Notice the red new growth on the tips of the branches.  This plant provides lots of color interest year-round, making it a great addition to your landscape.

Posted on: 5 April 2013 | 11:50 pm

Campfire Crassula

This evergreen, branching succulent is absolutely beautiful!  It displays dramatic, fleshy propeller-like leaves that mature from light green to bright red.  It grows prostrate and forms spreading mats that are useful in rock gardens and in containers.  Also, clusters of lightly fragrant white flowers can be found on upright 6 to 8 inch stalks in the summer.  Its average mat size is 6 inches tall by 2-3 feet wide. It forms roots at its joints even before they touch the ground.   Whenever grown in the shade, the leaves are bright apple green most of the year.  They will change color depending on the amount of sunlight they get.Crassula does best in part sun and is quite drought tolerant; therefore, its water needs are low.  Water regularly whenever the top 3 inches of soil becomes dry.  It can withstand winter temperatures as low as 30-32 degrees F.  Frost damage usually looks like small brown dots on the leaves.  This will not go away, but it does not hurt the plant.  I have mine planted in a container so I can bring it into the house for protection if the temperature falls below 30 degrees.  Its color is brightest in winter in response to short, cool nights and bright sunlight.  However, these plants can take full sun, love heat, and are easy to root and grow.Provide well-drained soil, and follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season to establish a deep, extensive root system.  For a neat appearance, remove old foliage before new leaves emerge.  Divide clumps every 2 to 3 years in early spring.To plant, dig a hole 3 times the width of the container.  Set the top of the root ball slightly above ground level.  Combine planting mix and soil, and fill to ground level.  Surround the plant with a 2-inch soil berm.  Pack the soil gently, but firmly.  Water soil to settle.  Add more soil as needed, and water again.  Add a 1/2-inch layer of mulch.The Crassula pictured below is only one plant which sets right outside my back door.  Its dramatic color catches my eye every time I walk into the kitchen first thing in the mornings.  I know you will love it as much as I do. 

Posted on: 3 April 2013 | 11:20 pm

Dwarf Bottlebrush Plant

Blood red blooms cover the top of this dwarf evergreen  plant for an extended season.  Dense branches are covered with blue-green leaves.  The versatile dwarf size is perfect for today's smaller gardens.  The ones  pictured below are known by their scientific name, Callistemon Citrinus, or "Little John".The common name, "bottlebrush", perfectly describes this plant's bright red flower spikes.  Hummingbirds love the flowers, and this plant is hardier than most other bottlebrushes.  The flowers are followed by small, woody capsules that look like bead bracelets on the bark and which last for years.  Although normally offered as a shrub, bottlebrush can be trained as a tree to 15 feet.  It makes a nice screen or tall unclipped hedge.  Pruning to develop several trunks and removing some lower branches can create a fine small specimen tree.  However, the average size of "Little John" is only 3 ft. tall by 5 feet wide.The leaf arrangement is alternate, the leaf color is blue-green, and the leaf blade length is from 2 to 4 inches.  There is no fall color change.  Flower color is red, and they are quite showy in the spring and summer.  Each bottlebrush-shaped spike is composed of many separate flowers.  The pollen is contained on the end of the long filament.  The seeds are contained inside a small fruit that forms on the stem.  The fruits tend to stay on the tree for one or more years before they release the seeds.  If you want to grow the bottlebrush from seed, collect the closed fruits and put them into a paper bag.  Then whenever the fruits open and the seeds spill out, sow the seeds into well-draining soil in the spring.  The round fruit is about .5 inch in length and brown in color.This shrub performs best if grown in full sun.  It also prefers good drainage, and its drought tolerance is high once established.  Bottlebrush tolerates any soil except very poor, alkaline, or poorly-drained.  It is pest resistant, and its long-term health is usually not affected by pests.  If the soil becomes too moist, root and crown-attacking fungus diseases can be a problem.  Therefore, keep the plant on the dry side with good air circulation.  Chlorosis, a systemic condition which causes new leaves to turn yellow, can be corrected with treatment of the soil using iron sulfate or iron chelate. Fertilize regularly to maintain good flower color and dark green foliage.The bottlebrush will thrive in warm climates, but it can tolerate the occasional frost or temperatures below freezing for a short time.  During the winter months, the bottlebrush should not be watered, which will allow the plant to go dormant.  Whenever the weather warms  in the spring, begin watering again.  Make sure you place the bottlebrush in full sun so it will produce healthy flowers.To maintain your bottlebrush tree, keep it trimmed and pruned so it can put more energy into producing flowers rather than new branches.  Pruning should be done on the new growth, not  on the older existing wood near the center of the tree.  If you prune too much of the new growth, however, the tree might not produce flowers for a season. On older trees, trimming off older branches will allow it to produce new growth and flowers.While the bottlebrush can be grown from its seeds, it can also be propagated by cuttings.  Take cuttings from the healthiest plants.  Find stems that are somewhat mature, but not the oldest or youngest stems.  You can place the stems  in a bucket of water until roots form and then plant in the ground or plant them directly into the soil and keep the soil moist until the stem is established.Clear a planting site for the Little John bottlebrush as soon as you can work  the soil in the spring.  Find a location with moist, well-drained soil and full sun to partial shade.  Remove all of the foliage from the area and provide space large enough for the mature size of the dwarf bottlebrush.  Dig a planting hole the same depth and at minimum twice the width of the container or root ball.  Take the bottlebrush out of the container, loosen the roots, and cut off any damaged, frail, or encircling roots found.  Place the Little John bottlebrush in the hole, backfill with the removed soil until nearly full, and then fill the hole with water to settle the soil around the roots.  Finish filling the hole and soak the area with water again.  Cover the ground around the bottlebrush with a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch.  Do not put any mulch up next to the shrub's stem.  Extend the mulch out to cover the area under the shrub's canopy.  Water the bottlebrush plants daily for the first 7 days after planting.  Water 2 or 3 times weekly for the next month and once weekly after that through the first growing season to establish the plants.One of the benefits of the bottlebrush plant is the fact that it is extremely low-maintenance and will grow well in the right environment with little care.  Once a bottlebrush is established, it is somewhat drought tolerant and does not need much additional watering.  If a long drought period occurs, the plant might need to be watered occasionally.  If the plant becomes rangy and too straggly for best appearance, it can be pruned back heavily which can restore a more compact shape and encourage new growth.  Since the bottlebrush is also highly disease and pest resistant, it is an ideal plant for the right climate.  If planted in the right conditions, a bottlebrush plant should thrive for 20 to 40 years.

Posted on: 29 March 2013 | 12:08 am

Gardens Need Structure

While color often attracts attention to the garden, the structure of the garden is also important, holding the outfit together and making the look a total package.  When planning your garden, think of trees as anchors and shrubs as framing.  These major plants in your landscape define spaces and provide focal points in your garden and will help you to get your garden design underway.  Step back and look at "the big picture" of your landscape.Visit a public garden, take a tour of private gardens, or go to your local garden center for ideas.  As the Greek proverb says, "A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they know they shall never sit in."  So, plant a tree, or plant a tree with a child.  Do it for your family, for yourself, for future generations, or for the great state of Texas.  Beyond being anchors and focal points to your landscape, trees truly are an investment in the future.  With proper plant selection and plant planting, you can leave a growing legacy with a living, air-cleaning tree.  With trees as your anchors, frame your landscape with shrubs.  Consider how your plants will look each season of the year and incorporate evergreens for year-round interest.  Explore your shrub options.  Be creative and express yourself with groupings of colorful shrubs.Envision the garden of your dreams.  Then use trees, shrubs, plants, and flowers to create the framework to make your garden vision a reality.Pictured below are groupings of plants and flowers which seem to complement each other in my landscape.  Whenever I go to a nursery, I try to envision what plants will look well with those I presently have to complete a certain look.  Below are some examples.     Long Shot of Backyard & Pool        Lantana, Copper Plant, & Mums                                                                                   Large Hibiscus & Fringe Flower                                                                                                                            Firebush, Esperanza, & Pride of Barbados                                                        Azaleas & Knock-Out Roses

Posted on: 22 March 2013 | 4:10 pm

Texas and Mexican Redbud Tree

Have you visited your local garden center lately and seen the gorgeous redbud trees in bloom?  There is  nothing showier in spring than the pink flowers lining the bare branches of redbuds.  Texas redbud is a small tree with great color impact  in the early spring landscape.  It rates highly for its showy flowers, adaptability to a range of soils, and its heat tolerance.  However, it has always appeared strange to me to see a tree full of flowers with no leaves.Texas redbud puts on quite a show in early spring with its magnificent display of pink flowers that appear before the leaves emerge.  Texas redbuds grow in the central and north central parts of the state, and Mexican redbuds grow in central and west Texas.  The farther west you go, the smaller and more drought-tolerant the redbuds become.  Texas redbud is an easy-to-grow, ideal blooming tree for small yards.  It is commonly multi-trunked and will grow in clay or rocky soils as long as they are well drained.The color periods are two to three weeks of spring blooms in March or early April, glossy green leaves all summer, and yellow leaf color for two to three weeks in the fall.  There is also a white-blooming cultivar called "Texas White". This deciduous tree averages 15 to 20 feet tall and wide for Texas redbud; 10 to 15 feet tall and wide for Mexican redbud.  Its growth rate is considered medium.  Both trees have thick, heart-shaped green leaves.  The leaves of Mexican redbud are smaller and glossier than its Texas counterpart.  Both have magenta, 1/2-inch-long pea-like flowers.Of the two afore-mentioned redbud trees, the Mexican redbud is the shortest, the most compact, and the most drought-tolerant.  It grows as a multi-trunked tree on the limestone soils of west Texas and must be planted in well-drained soil.  The leaves are thicker, darker, glossier, and more ruffled along the margins than those of the Texas redbud.  Easy to grow, Mexican redbud rewards the gardener with spectacular flowers in the spring and low maintenance requirements.If you want the more drought-tolerant Mexican redbud, be sure it is properly labeled as such at the nursery.  If you select the tree after the leaves have emerged, their ruffled margins is a good indication that the tree is a Mexican redbud.Both Texas and Mexican redbuds take light shade to full sun.  Their water requirements are very low after establishment.  If fact, they can live on rainwater alone without supplemental water in all but the most extreme conditions.Redbuds grow in unimproved soil, including clay, provided the soil has not been compacted.  Compaction occurs most commonly from heavy equipment working around a house under construction.Redbuds from containers can be planted at any time.  However, fall is best because they establish more easily in cooler weather.  Late fall and winter are the best times for planting balled-and-burlapped redbuds.  Space them 15 to 20 feet on center, measuring from the center of each plant) for Texas redbud; 10 to 15 feet on center for Mexican redbud.Trim them only to shape trees when young or to raise the canopy (removing branches from the trunk that are closest to the ground).Fertilization needs are low.  Fertilize at planting time with a timed-release product.  Less fertilizer is needed with the application of more organic material.  In the years after planting, fertilization needs will vary based upon the nutrients in your soil.No serious insect or pest problems are known.

Posted on: 21 March 2013 | 12:45 am

Boxwood

Although boxwood is one of the most popular shrubs for hedges, we will discuss five different varieties in this blog.  Boxwoods are considered the premier hedge material.Historically, boxwood was thought of as a plant of the aristocracy.  They would be cut and trimmed into all different sizes and shapes on the grounds and gardens of the very wealthy.  As evergreen shrubs, they look the same all year long and give structure to the garden.  Plus, they rate highly in popularity due to their ease of care.There are 70 different species of boxwoods which vary primarily in their cold tolerance and growth rate.  Although all make good hedges and foundation plants, choose the one that fits the ultimate size desired for your space.Their average size which is easily maintained is between 1 and 6 feet tall by 1 to 3 feet wide.  Their growth rate is considered slow.  All have tiny green leaves with no significant flowers.  Several different varieties do well in north central Texas.  Japanese boxwood is the most susceptible to winter damage, and Korean boxwood is the hardiest of all species.  The five varieties we will discuss are:  English or Common Boxwood, Japanese Boxwood, Korean Boxwood, Little Leaf Boxwood, and another variety of English Boxwood called "Suffruticosa".English or Common Boxwood - This variety is used primarily for rounded foundation plants of four to six feet tall and wide.  It does well in zones 6 and 7, but struggles with the heat in zones 8 and 9.Japanese Boxwood - This variety grows faster than the rest which is about four feet tall and wide.  It also does better in the heat of zones 8 and 9 than the English or Williamsburg boxwood.Korean Boxwood - This one is quite cold tolerant, growing from zone 7 north to Canada, but not in zones 8 and 9.  It will grow as tall as four feet tall and wide.  "Winter Gem" and "Winter Green" hold their color better in the winter months.Little Leaf Boxwood - This variety is a dwarf boxwood, such as "Kingswood Dwarf", "Morris Midget", or "Justin Bauer".  It only grows one foot tall by one foot wide.  However, it is not widely available in our area."Suffruticosa" Boxwood - This variety grows only 18 to 36 inches tall.  Therefore, it is only used for small hedges and edging.  It does well in zones 6 and 7, but is not happy in zones 8 and 9.  As a very slow grower, it grows only about two inches per year.  Therefore, it seldom needs trimming.All boxwoods grow in light shade to full sun.  Water needs are medium after establishment, requiring water only once or twice a week during the growing season, depending on the environment.  Plant them in any fertile, well-drained soil that has been enriched with organic matter.  Good drainage is important.  Boxwoods from containers can be planted at any time; however, fall is best because they establish more easily in cooler weather.  Space them about one to four feet on center, measuring from the center of each plant.All boxwood plants are tolerant of pruning and shearing, so you can shape them as desired.  Fertilize them at planting time and each spring with a timed-release product.  Less fertilizer is needed with the application of more organics.Pest problems are rare.  However, root rot can develop if plants are kept too wet.  Their juice or sap can cause skin problems. 

Posted on: 12 March 2013 | 12:17 am

Dusty Miller

Dusty Miller is a favorite annual plant in North Central Texas for several reasons.  It is hardy, often living longer than just one season, and is tolerant of frost.  Most flowers look even better when grown in the company of plants that provide strong contrast in color and texture.  This is exactly what you get whenever you plant dusty miller.  The frosty, grey leaves flatter bright reds and deep pinks and purples, making them appear sharper.  They also amplify blues beautifully, as well.  They are true go-with-everything plants, and they also do an amazing job of separating masses of different-colored flowers.  When used as an edging, dusty miller makes a bed look as if it is trimmed with lace.  However, it needs contrasting companions to look good and does not work well when planted alone.  Dusty miller's silver-grey leaves provide contrast to flowering plants for the entire growing season.  However, it is not known for its own flowers.  Small clusters of yellow flowers develop on year-old plants; however, they usually are removed.Their average size is from 8 to12 inches tall and equally as wide.  Their growth rate is considered medium.  They have deeply-cut, grey leaves covered with fine, felt-like hairs.  Their lifespan is usually 7 months, although occasionally they will live up to one year.  It is difficult to name a flower that does not partner well with dusty miller, but some make such fantastic bedfellows that they should be high on your list of choices.  Select plants that are quite different from dusty miller.  Try them as an annual accent for a perennial garden featuring such colors as purple (such as Homestead Purple Verbena) and hot pinks (such as Dragon Wing Begonia).  Use the begonias as the tallest plant in the grouping.  They grow about two feet tall and bloom from spring until the first frost of fall.Dusty Miller requires light shade to full sun.  It grows best whenever the soil never becomes completely dry after the establishment period.  It requires more water whenever grown in containers.For the garden, plant dusty miller in any fertile, well-drained soil that has been enriched with organic matter.  Use only good-quality potting mix for containers.  Set out your plants in early spring after the hard freezes have passed.  Space them about 8 inches on center, measuring from the center of each plant.  They can be planted closer in containers.  Fertilize them at planting time with a timed-release product.  Whenever buds rise up on overwintered plants, you may want to clip them off.  The flowers are not showy, and plants that have bloomed usually deteriorate quickly.In very warm, rainy years, dusty miller may be troubled by root rot diseases.  Root knot nematodes also can stunt the growth of this plant.  NOTE:  All parts of this plant are poisonous if eaten.         An example of the color contrast mentioned above is pictured below.

Posted on: 28 February 2013 | 11:52 pm

Protecting Your Pets from Toxic Plants

Trying to keep pets safe from toxic plants in your yard, garden, and indoor spaces can be a challenge.  It is best to know in advance which plants are potentially harmful if your dog or cat chews or ingests it.  Then you will be able to make an informed decision about whether and where to plant or display toxic plants.Although I did not know it at the time, some time ago I witnessed the potential poisoning of a dog by its owner while I was in the veterinarian's waiting room with Bear.  The friendly man was innocently feeding his loving Chihuahua flowers from a morning glory vine.  "He loves them," the man said as the chubby little dog gobbled up the flowers one after the other.  Later I learned that morning glory is potentially toxic to dogs and cats who eat it.  It can cause moderate to severe coordination problems, diarrhea, anemia, and even liver failure, according to the PetPoisonHelpline.com.  This website offers information about hundreds of toxic substances, including plants, and provides telephone assistance for pet owners who need help with a suspected poisoning.Keep in mind these busted myths about pets and plants which have been adapted from the Burpee Home Gardens blog:If I can eat it safely, my pet can eat it safely.          You might think this to be true, especially if talking about fruits and vegetables.  However, even some so-called "super foods" such as tomatoes, grapes, raisins, onions, garlic, and avocados are all potentially poisonous to dogs and cats.  It is best to feed your pet only food made and labeled for its species, or recipes obtained from your veterinarian.  This should make them less likely to want to eat  human food or plants.Cats and dogs instinctively avoid eating anything potentially harmful.           This might work in the wild, but not so much whenever it comes to domesticated animals who have generally lost their natural instincts and are like children who must be watched.  Anyone who has raised a puppy or kitten knows that curiosity and boredom can stimulate them to bite, chew, and eat things they shouldn't, including plants, leaves, flowers, fruit, berries, and seeds.  That is why you need to carefully choose the plants that pets will have access to in your home and in your garden spaces.Any toxic plant my pet chews will kill them.           The good news is that this is not necessarily a true statement.  Although there are many toxic plants (some that are very popular in homes and gardens), most of them will not kill unless ingested in a large quantity.  Furthermore, the quantity is often relative to the species, breed, and size of the animal.  Nevertheless, there may be some serious gastric effects such as vomiting and diarrhea or skin irritations.  In some extreme cases, however, neurological, heart, or kidney problems may arise.To make sure your pets and plants happily share your home's naturally inspired spaces, it is important to learn which plants present potential problems.  This way you can avoid them, remove them from your garden, or keep them out of your pet's reach.  You can learn more about keeping pets safe from plants on the following websites: PetPoisonHelpline.com - This website offers an interactive database of toxic plants, information about each one, and first-aid instructions.HealthyPet.com - This website offers a thorough list of toxic plants and other substances, as well as steps to take if poisoning is suspected.HumaneSociety.org - Download a list of toxic plants.ASPCA.org - The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty  to Animals' pet-safe gardening page offers tips on several topics related to pets and gardening, including a searchable database of toxic plants. Your local garden center - Speak with a Texas Certified Nursery Professional regarding any questions you may have.    

Posted on: 26 February 2013 | 10:55 pm

Pet-friendly Gardens

Enjoying your yard with your furry friends requires compromise.  Sharing it with pets can be both fun and challenging.  Many people choose homes with fenced backyards for their children and pets, then decide they want a beautifully landscaped space for the whole family.  The key word is compromise.  Here are some thoughts gleaned from years of experience while sharing my backyard with my dog, Bear, and from talking with other pet owners, as well.While I try to familiarize Bear with my plants while planting them, I also encourage him to stay out of the planting area.  However, many dogs are very curious, particularly terriers, and especially love the dirt.  Thankfully, Bear is not one of those.A friend of mine loves to grow herbs and has had the best luck growing them in raised beds that are contained by wooden frames or some sort of fencing.  Her dogs usually tend to stay out of the herb beds after the plants are fully grown.  She has also been able to dissuade her dogs with metal yard art such as scarecrows that would be uncomfortable for them to sit upon.  I also like using yard art with moveable parts.  A hedge would help to keep pets out of a flowerbed.  Your taller container plants will be rarely bothered as long as you have watered into the soil dry organic fertilizers or dried molasses and corn meal.I plant extra vegetables for Bear so there is enough for both of us.  Some of my previous dogs have loved broccoli, carrots, squash, and brussel sprouts.  Whenever I would sometimes damage a few potatoes during harvest, some of my dogs would carry "potato babies" around the yard.  Some dogs have their favorite herb bushes where they like to take their naps and would give away their secret by the fragrance of lemon verbena or rosemary in their fur.The fact that Bear is territorial provides at least some security for my plants, and he does a relatively good job of keeping the squirrels and birds in the trees where they belong.  He also thrills in chasing away the neighborhood bunnies who frequent our backyard.  I have learned over the years to be more easygoing about my backyard garden.  I  plant the more valued varieties and those that could be toxic to Bear elsewhere in my landscape.Below is Bear pictured with one of his favorites, the pink fringe flower bushes. My next blog will be on protecting your pets from toxic plants.

Posted on: 21 February 2013 | 11:43 pm

Various Medium Grasses

Grasses are all the rage in Texas landscapes.  The reason why - they are gorgeous!  However, choosing the right ones can be tricky.  Some last only one season, and some last for years.  Some require maintenance only once a year, and others will take over your garden in no time.  Many grasses are deciduous, meaning leaves die after a freeze.  All of the grasses I will mention are evergreen, except purple fountain grass, which is considered an annual in north central Texas.  Fountain grasses bloom from midsummer until the first frost.The average size for these grasses is from 24 to 36 inches tall, and their growth rate varies by type.  They have long, grass-like leaves with tall, upright spikes.  Their flowers are as follows:  white for "Hameln" fountain grass; rust for purple fountain grass; tan for inland sea oats; pink or purple for muhly grass.  Each of these will be discussed separately."Hameln" - "Hameln" has been growing at the Fort Worth Botanic Garden for many years.  Its two and one-half foot height makes it useful in many landscape situations.  This showy grass produces tan-colored, foxtail plumes from midsummer to frost, but also holds its character well in winter.  Since it only requires annual trimming, it has become quite popular.  "Hameln" prefers well-drained, irrigated soil in full sun.  Although most fountain grasses bloom from midsummer until the first frost, "Hameln" remains attractive in winter as well.Mexican Feather Grass - This is a native, drought-tolerant, grass that is the finest-textured of all of these.  It is green during cool weather and turns a straw color as it goes dormant in summer.  It usually grows about two feet tall and requires extremely well-drained soil.  This grass does best without any irrigation.  In fact, excessive winter moisture will kill this grass.Pink Muhly Grass - Pink muhly grass flowers from August until the first frost.  This grass grows two to three feet tall and wide, and produces spectacular clouds of airy, pink plumes in the fall.  The plumes later turn tan and will persist through the winter.  The glossy, wiry, dark green leaves are attractive and differ from the flat-bladed leaves of most other grasses.  Plant pink muhly grass in full sun.  This grass is fairly drought tolerant, but it appreciates occasional irrigation.Purple Fountain Grass - In Texas, purple fountain grass is an annual, living for only one season.  It blooms from midsummer until the first frost.  It is the only one of these grasses that is not native to Texas.  However, it is worth using because its striking, purplish-red foliage and pinkish-tan foxtail plumes show up so well whenever it is surrounded by contrasting annual plantings.  It grows approximately three feet tall and prefers full sun.  Fountain grasses can survive with little irrigation once they become established.Inland Sea Oats - Inland Sea Oats is a clump-forming, upright grass native to Texas.  It prefers shade and grows two to three feet tall.  Leaves are bright green and resemble bamboo foliage.  It  produces flat, tan, chevron-shaped, and drooping seed heads.  It self-seeds and may become invasive; however, it looks great in a large drift under shade trees.  It blooms for about two weeks in June or July.  The seed pods that follow turn tan by fall and will persist all winter.  This grass is fairly drought tolerant and only needs occasional irrigation.For the garden, plant these grasses in any fertile, well-drained soil that has been enriched with organic matter.  Use only good quality potting mix for containers.  Plant anytime from containers.  Spring is best when planted from divisions.Cut these grasses back to the ground just before the new growth begins in February or March.  Your goal is to trim off the old growth from the previous year.  Be sure not to wait too long because if you cut back new growth that appears in spring, the tips will be blunt and discolored.Fertilize at planting time with a timed-release product.  Less fertilizer is needed with the application of more organics. In the years after planting, fertilization needs will vary, depending upon the nutrients in your soil.It is generally not necessary to divide these small grasses often because they do not spread too quickly.  However, if they spread too much or if you want more plants, dig the whole root ball out in early spring, divide it into four pieces, and replant.Garden centers are loaded with many different grasses in the spring or summer.  Most are labeled clearly with their names.  Unfortunately, the labels do not include any of their bad tendencies, such as the aggressive growth that some have.  Therefore, it is best to remember these tips whenever you go to purchase.The grasses below are Mexican Feather Grass (pictured first) and Purple Fountain Grass (pictured last).  The Pink Muhly Grass has not yet arrived at my local garden center.  Pictures of it will be added later. 

Posted on: 17 February 2013 | 5:10 pm

Kangaroo Paw Plant (Anigozanthos)

Make a bold statement in your garden with kangaroo paw.  There are 12 species with more than 50 named varieties.  All of them prefer hot, dry summers with bright sun.  This unusual perennial comes from Australia and bears long, wide grass-like green leaves and upright spikes of fuzzy flowers in radioactively brilliant colors.  The blooms last a long time and make great cut flowers.  It is an evergreen perennial that prefers mostly sun.  Its height ranges between 2 to 10 feet tall, and its width is from 1 to 3 feet wide.  Flower colors include white, pink, red, yellow, or orange, depending upon the particular variety.   Bloom time is in the spring and summer, depending upon the variety.  It is very drought tolerant and easy to grow.  Use it in containers, in beds, and in borders.These plants have a basal rosette of long green to greyish-green leaves.  The leaves of some species are hairy.  From the heart of this rosette merge long, leafless stalks which end in a raceme of flowers.  The size and height of these stalks, which can be clothed in colored hairs, varies between the various species.The tuberous flower buds are also covered with colored hairs, giving it a velvety aspect.  These long furry hairs also determine the color of the flower. Often they have a blend of colors in the flowers.  The tubular form of the flower bud resembles a kangaroo paw, hence its name.  The flower tip spreads fan-like into six petals.  Full-grown plants can have up to ten flowers at the end of each stalk.A good companion plant for the kangaroo paw is the day lily.  Day lilies are just as low maintenance as kangaroo paw and have similar foliage.  The difference in flowers creates interest in the summer garden.  Plant kangaroo paw in a sandy soil mixture to emulate that of its native environment (Australia).  One part sand to two parts potting soil will provide the necessary drainage.  Plant it in a location that receives full sunlight.  Keep the soil moist until sprouts emerge if you are growing it from seed.  Kangaroo paw should never be exposed to temperatures below 41 degrees F.  Therefore, it is best not to plant until the last freeze of the season.  Be sure to move your outdoor kangaroo paw plants indoors before winter, or serious damage may occur.  Keep the soil consistently moist during all seasons except winter.  Kangaroo paw should be kept dry during winter whenever the plant is resting.  Only water this plant with tap water that has been allowed to sit outside for one full day, giving the chlorine a chance to evaporate.  Alternatively, fresh rain water can be used as it has no chlorine content.  Kangaroo paw is a fragile plant, and the added chlorine in tap water can cause a decline in its health.Fertilize kangaroo paw with organic compost about once a month.  Apply approximately one inch of compost in a small circle around the base of the plant.  Avoid fertilizing during winter months, which is the plant's dormancy period.Regular pruning is required to keep kangaroo paw green and vivacious.  Cut off brown and wilted flower stalks at the base of the foliage clump.  New growth will replace it in three to four days.  Never trim wilted leaves.  Trimmed leaves will not grow back, and will retain lifeless until they finally die.  Remove the whole leaf from the plant instead of cutting it back only partially, which will allow more sunlight for newer stalks to grow and take their place.Snails and ink spot disease are the two most common pests of the kangaroo paw.  Snails will eat the foliage of the plant, and can destroy flowers and leaves in days.  Leave snail poison around the base of the plant to eliminate or prevent any potential snails.Ink spot is a fungal disease that causes black spots to form on the leaves.  These spots will grow until the entire leaf is black.  Remove any infected leaves at the first opportunity, and burn them to kill the fungal spores.  Copper-based fungicides can be used in extreme situations to help control the spread, but there is no real cure.You can also cut the flowers of the kangaroo paw and combine it with shapely sticks or smooth sword-shaped leaves to make an elegant flower arrangement for indoors.  With lush dark green foliage that can range from grass-like to iris-like, and felt-like blooms on tall stems, they are popular for floral arrangements.  They also make excellent cut flowers because they last well when cut.  Many new varieties have been developed with the florist trade in mind.  Another different use for kangaroo paw flowers is the addition of floral extracts to shampoos and conditioners.Kangaroo paw is not only an interesting plant to grow, it will be a conversation piece in the garden or for your indoor floral arrangements.  If you have a warm place to grow it, this plant will be a delightful addition to your garden.The pictures below show two different species of kangaroo paw plants that are presently at one of my neighborhood garden centers:  Gold Velvet and Pink Beauty.                                                                                         

Posted on: 10 February 2013 | 10:11 pm

Viburnum (Chinese Snowball)

Viburnum is a deciduous shrub which loses its leaves in the winter but puts on a breathtaking show whenever it comes into bloom in the early spring.  It is a tough shrub and is easily maintained.The average size of a viburnum ranges between 8 to12 feet tall by 6 to 8 feet wide.  It is considered to have a fast growth rate.  Its oval-shaped leaves are deep green in color with white on the underside.  They are 4 inches long by 2 inches wide.  Flowers are in round balls, 6 to 8 inches across, and composed of florets less than 1 inch across.  As the flowers unfold, they are the color of a Granny Smith apple, eventually turning white.  The "Kern's Pink" viburnum has blossoms tinged with pink, and its blooms are smaller than those of the Chinese snowball.At the Fort Worth Botanic Garden, there is one inside the entry courtyard of the Japanese garden.  Whenever it blooms, it literally stops traffic.  The giant snowballs that cover this shrub cause a jaw-dropping experience for all those who see it in early spring.  This plant needs a lot of space, so be sure to keep that in mind whenever placing it in your landscape.  They bloom for 2 to 3 weeks from late March to mid-April.You will love the effect of early-blooming flowers planted in front of viburnum.  Furthermore, whenever it finishes blooming, it makes a great backdrop for tall perennials and annuals.  Try viburnum with azaleas and forsythia.  They all bloom at approximately the same time (early spring).  Plant both forsythias and azaleas in front of the taller Chinese snowball for a spectacular display of spring flowers.  Be sure to place the viburnum where it gets at least half a day's sun.  Ideal light for this group of plants would be on the east side of your house or in an area that gets morning sun and afternoon shade.  The viburnum and the forsythia can take full sun, but the azalea will burn up with too much sun.Space viburnums about 8 feet on center, measuring from the center of each plant.  Plant them in full sun to partial shade.  Blooms are best and  the most attractive leaf color is prevalent  in full sun.  They are very heat tolerant.  Water needs are low after establishment.  They like water every week or two during the growing season, depending upon their environment.  For the garden, plant viburnums in any fertile, well-drained soil that has been enriched with organic matter.  Use only good-quality potting mix for container planting.Viburnums from containers can be planted at any time, although fall is best because they establish more easily in cooler weather.  However, you are more likely to find them at your garden center in early spring whenever they are blooming.These plants should be pruned annually right after bloom time in late April to early May.  Fertilize them at planting time and each spring with a timed-release product.  Less fertilizer is needed with the application of more organics.Here is a budget gardening tip.  Since viburnums grow quickly, you can buy small, inexpensive ones that will fill out quickly.  Furthermore, since this plant stops traffic, it is a high-impact plant for a low price.

Posted on: 1 February 2013 | 1:15 am

Forsythia Shrub

Forsythia is a deciduous flowering shrub which announces the arrival of spring with a sudden explosion of golden yellow.  It blooms in March, often even before the last freeze, and continues blooming for about a month.  The spire-like flower stems of this shrub will show brightly at the back of a border or alone as a bold, colorful specimen plant.In addition to opening the color season with a bang, forsythias are among the easiest shrubs to grow.  They adapt to sun or partial shade, good soil or bad, and they are at their most beautiful when not pruned.  Blooming is not as heavy if planted in the shade.  The natural fountain shape of a mature forsythia is breathtaking; however, patience is required.  Young plants often appear a bit stiff, but after about three or four years, the branches lengthen into a graceful arch.In late winter's bare landscape, forsythias are easily seen from afar.  Therefore, they are ideal for the distant corners of your yard.  They are also good for accenting fences or other boundaries, and they mix easily with other flowering and evergreen shrubs.  Other great companion plants are the pansy, the viola, and the iris which bloom at the same time as do forsythias and make great borders for them.  Forsythias look great planted near Mexican plum trees which also bloom at the same time. Loropetalum is a large shrub which is 6 to15 feet tall.  It has purplish/burgundy foliage that makes a striking background for the golden yellow flowers of forsythia.  Furthermore, loropetalum produces fringe-like, fuchsia-colored flowers in late winter or early spring that will stand out against the yellow forsythia as well.  Use a large type of loropetalum behind the forsythia.Their color period begins in late winter or very early spring, usually in mid-March.  They then continue blooming for two to four weeks.  Their growth rate is considered fast, and their average size is about six feet tall and wide.Their narrow green leaves in summer, which are about three to five inches long, turn yellow or bronze in late fall. Their abundant, four-petaled flowers cover the bare stems in early spring.For the garden, plant them in any fertile, well-drained soil that has been enriched with organic matter.  Space them about six to eight feet on center, measuring from the center of each plant.Forsythia from containers can be planted at any time; however, fall is best because they establish more easily in cooler weather.  Local garden centers are well stocked with them at this time (mid to late January).Water requirements are low after establishment.  They like water every week or two during the growing season, depending upon their environment.  Fertilization requirements are also low.  Fertilize them at planting time with a timed-release product.  Less fertilizer is needed with the application of more organics.  In the years after planting, fertilization needs will vary, based upon the nutrients in your soil.The only pictures I currently have to show are the bare stems of the forsythia which are now covered in buds.  A yellow flower will later appear where each bud is now.  Whenever they begin to bloom in March, I will add more pictures to this blog to show off their brilliant color.                                 

Posted on: 20 January 2013 | 10:19 pm

Needle Palm

Needle palms are exceptionally easy palms for north central Texas.  They require little water and are quite easy to grow.  Needle palms are evergreen trees, although they are so short, they are also considered a shrub.They are one of the most cold-hardy palms, performing well in Texas zones 7-10.  They provide a wonderful large evergreen mass of coarse textured foliage and require no maintenance at all.  The name comes from the six-inch-long black needles that protrude from the leaf stalk that protect the plant's seeds.  These needles make the plant deer-proof, so this is an excellent choice for gardeners who must cope with deer problems.  They are a slow-growing shrubby  palm that reach only six to eight feet tall by four to eight feet wide.Cold tolerance is more important for palms than for most other types of plants.  If the new bud (the growth emerging  from the center) of the palm is killed, the entire plant will die.  However, not so for most other plants.  If the new growth dies on them, the roots will still live.  If temperatures should drop too low, wrap the crown to protect the new bud.Palms are ideal candidates for containers, particularly needle  palms.  They stay for many years in the same pot without the need for transplanting to a larger container.  The pictures below are of a needle palm which has been in the same pot for 5-6 years, sitting in the shade  of my back patio, due to its slow growth rate.  However, it will continually put on new growth, making it fuller and fuller.   This plant started out in a 4-inch pot sitting in my kitchen window and now has grown to a height of over 4 feet.The leaves of needle palms are approximately three feet wide and are different shades of green - the newest growth being lighter in color.These palms are becoming more available every year in local garden centers.  Since they grow slowly, be sure to buy the largest one you can find or afford.  Their light requirements range from light shade to full sun.  Water requirements are low after establishment.  They prefer water every week or two during the growing season, depending upon their environment.  All palms need supplemental water for the two years after they have been transplanted.  Fertile, well-drained soil high in organic matter is best for needle palms.  If planting in the garden, space them about 5 to 8 feet on center, measuring from the center of each plant.  You can plant them anytime of the year.  Fertilization needs are low.Trim off the old fronds if they persist on the trunk after they turn brown.  However, do not pull them off the trunk or you could damage it.  After the first freeze of the season, I cut my palms that are planted in my landscape back, leaving only 6 inches above the ground.  In spring, they will begin putting on new growth, and by the end of fall will have grown to about 4-5 feet in height.I enjoy the tropical look these palms provide, especially because they are so easily maintained.   In fact, I plan on planting more of them as soon as spring arrives.     

Posted on: 11 January 2013 | 12:22 am

Ginkgo Tree

The ginkgo tree is a deciduous tree whose average size is from 50 to 80 feet tall by 30 to 40 feet wide with a very slow growth rate.  Seeing one on a fall day is truly evidence of nature's handiwork.  To see a blanket of gold resting upon a fresh green carpet of grass looks like a beautiful painting which nature often provides.  Leaves turn golden yellow for about two weeks in the fall.Its leaves are very unusual and fan-shaped, measuring 2 to 3 inches long by 2 to 3 inches wide.  They occur in clusters of 3 to 5 and are a rich, emerald green color, changing to vibrant golden yellow in fall.  Male and female flowers are on separate trees.  Both are small and inconspicuous.  It is best to select a male plant since the fruit on the female tree has a foul odor.  The flowers, however, are insignificant, appearing in March or April for about two weeks.Whenever choosing a ginkgo, make sure you purchase a named cultivar so you are positive you have a male tree.  The smell from the seeds of a female tree is quite unpleasant.  Growth habit and fall color are the basis for cultivar selections, and several of them make excellent choices.  Ginkgo trees are slow growers but become large trees; therefore, give them room to grow.  If space is a factor, try "Princeton Sentry", a narrow, columnar tree that does not have a large spread.  Ginkgo trees are not particular about soil and have proven to be excellent urban trees if given space to grow.  Excellent choices of ginkgo trees include "Princeton Sentry" (a very narrow form), "Autumn Gold", and "Golden Globe".  All have wonderful golden yellow fall color.Ginkgo trees need at least six hours of full sun per day.  Water needs are low after establishment.  They like water every week or two during the growing season, depending on their environment.  They will grow in unimproved soil, including clay, provided the soil has not been compacted.  Compaction occurs most commonly from heavy equipment working around a house under construction.  There are no common pest problems.Plant ginkgo trees from containers at any time.  Fall is best, however, because they establish more easily in cooler weather.  Late fall and winter are the best times for balled and burlaped ginkgo trees.  Plant them about 40 to 50 feet on center, measuring from the center of each plant.Fertilization needs are low.  Fertilize them at planting time with a timed-release product.  Less fertilizer is needed with the application of more organic material.  In the years after planting, fertilization needs will vary depending upon the nutrients in your soil.It must be noted that this tree is poisonous and is not to be eaten.  Also, sap or juice can be a skin irritant.  As stated earlier, the odor from female fruits is very objectionable.Ginkgo trees should be trimmed only to shape the trees while they are young or to raise the canopy.  This means removing branches from the trunk that are the closest to the ground.For a magnificent-looking tree, especially in the fall, choose to plant a ginkgo.  You will also be pleased with its ease of care.                                                 

Posted on: 9 January 2013 | 10:40 pm

How to Re-bloom Your Poinsettias

Have you ever wondered how this is done?Eventually, your poinsettia's bracts will age and lose their aesthetic appeal.  However, there is no reason to throw them out.  With dedication, proper care, and a certain amount of luck, you can re-bloom your poinsettias to enjoy them the next holiday season.As a seasonal floral decor, poinsettias are stunningly beautiful.  However, these beauties are live plants and need care if you want to extend their good looks throughout the holidays and into the new year.  Here are a few tips for poinsettia care during the holidays:Provide room temperatures between 68 and 70 degrees F.Do not expose your plants to temperatures below 50.Do not place plants near cold drafts or excessive heat.Water thoroughly whenever the soil feels dry to the touch.Do not allow plants to sit in standing water.Do not fertilize them whenever they are in bloom.Place your plants in indirect sunlight for at least 6 hours per day.Do not expose your plants to chilling winds when transporting.Use a large roomy shopping bag to protect your plants when transporting them.Eventually, the poinsettia's bracts (their red leaves) will age and lose their aesthetic appeal.  However, remember that you, too, can re-bloom your poinsettias.  Just follow this timetable and these steps carefully.In the months after the holidays, continue following the tips above.  However, when blooming is done, feed your plants with a balanced water soluble fertilizer.In late March or early April, cut your poinsettias back to about 8 inches in height, and continue a regular watering and fertilizing program.  By the end of May, you should see vigorous new growth.  Place your plants outdoors after all chance of frost has passed and night temperatures average 55 or above.  Continue regular watering during the growth period, and fertilize every 2 to 3 weeks.Around June 1st, transplant your poinsettias into larger pots, but no more than 4 inches larger in circumference than the original pot.  A soil mix with a considerable amount of organic matter is recommended.  In milder climates, you may transplant the poinsettia into a well-prepared garden bed.  Be sure the bed is rich in organic material and has good drainage.In late June or early July, prune your plant to keep it bushy and compact.  Do not prune your plants later than September 1st.  Keep the plants in indirect sun and water regularly.The poinsettia is a photoperiodic plant, meaning that it sets buds and produces flowers as the autumn nights lengthen.  Poinsettias will naturally come into bloom during November or December, depending upon the flowering response time of the individual variety.  However, timing to produce blooms for the holiday season can be tricky.  During October through early December, the plants must be put through daily timed cycles of total darkness and bright sunlight.  The following will explain how this is done.October 1 through early December, continue the normal watering and fertilizing program, and add this routine.  At night, you must keep plants in complete darkness for 14 continuous hours.  Accomplish this by moving the plants to a totally dark room or by covering them overnight with a large box that will not allow light to leak in.  Light of any kind, such as from a street light, household lamp, or even a flashlight, could delay or entirely halt the re-flowering process.  Temperatures should be 60-70.  Temperatures outside of this range could also delay flowering.  During the day, make sure your poinsettias get 6 to 8 hours of bright sunlight daily.Carefully follow this night-day cycle until you see the red bracts emerging from the stems which usually takes from 8 to 10 weeks.  Whenever this happens, you can shift your care routine back to the tips above and begin enjoying a colorful display of blooms for the holiday season.Good luck! 

Posted on: 2 January 2013 | 11:28 pm

Primroses

Primroses are wonderful plants to grow, which is evident not only by the beauty of their flowers, but also by the number of flower lovers who have them in their gardens.  Every landscaper or gardening enthusiast knows a shady corner that can benefit from a splash of color.  Therefore, they transform dark, damp garden nooks into bright spots with the luminous shades of primroses.Primroses are perennials that bloom in a wide range of purples, yellows, reds, pinks, and whites.  These low-growing plants boast rosettes of foliage that send up blooms in early and  mid-spring.  Primroses are often the first dramatic color of a blooming season, returning every year to herald the spring, sometimes even before all the snow has melted.  They have rosettes of large oval, puckered leaves.  The flowers bloom on stalks coming up near the center of the leaves.  Some have contrasting colors in the throat of the flower.  If you plant your primroses during the winter as I have done, be sure to cover them  if the temperatures fall below freezing.Plant heights are from 2 inches to 2-1/2 feet tall, depending on the variety.  Plant widths range from 4 inches to 2 feet wide, also depending on the variety.  Some of their special features include attractive flowers and foliage, fragrance, attracting butterflies, tolerating wet soil, and being easy to grow.Among the most popular varieties of primroses are the English primrose, known also as the Common Primrose.  They have flowers of 1 inch in diameter and offer a myriad of attractive bright colors.  English primroses grow up to 6 to 8 inches in height and have relatively big leaves.  They are tolerant to different types of soils and other garden conditions.Another popular variety is Japanese Primrose (or Primula Japonica).  It requires  moist soil and spreads by runners.  These plants have white or red flowers which are usually bigger than the flowers of English Primroses.  This particular variety has very beautiful flower stalks called candelabras.Plant primrose in a sheltered area.  They are shade-loving flowers and do best when planted in moist, shadowy areas with rich, slightly acidic soil.  Plant them in filtered light close to other acid-loving plants.  They are quite tolerant of being transplanted, even when they are in bloom.  Newly purchased plants can be set into the garden in early spring, planting them so that their crown is right at the soil level and at least 6 inches apart.Prepare the soil.  Dig the soil to a depth of at least 12 inches, turning over the dirt as you go.  Primroses like rich soil, so add compost - about 1 cubic foot to every 3 cubic feet of soil.  Then add fertilizer per package directions.  Mix the compost and fertilizer into the soil by turning it over and raking it smooth.  For each plant, dig a hole in the prepared soil that is the same size as the pot.  Remove the primrose from its pot and place the plant in the hole so that the level of the soil is at the same place on the plant's stems as it was in the pot.  Firm the soil around the plant by pressing it lightly.Primroses prefer partial shade, so it is better to plant them in locations where they get a reasonable amount of morning sun, but at the same time will not be exposed to the sun at the hottest time of the day.  They propagate naturally as they slowly spread by rhizomes under the ground.  The main thing you have to do is to divide them at the end of spring after the flowering period has ended.You should provide a good amount of water for your primrose plants, but make sure that the soil is also well drained.  To leave them in standing water is potentially dangerous for the roots.  At least once a month your plants should get fertilizer.  A general organic material will do well.  After the blooming period whenever the flowers are faded and dry, cut off the whole flower's stem.  By doing so, you will increase the chances of another blooming session within the same season.Fertilize plants every 2 weeks with a water-soluble fertilizer.  Try not to get the fertilizer on the leaves of the plants, lest they burn.  Gently lift the leaves out of the way, if possible.  Remove bugs by hand or with a strong stream of water from the hose.  Most pests do not bother primroses.  Deadhead spent blossoms to keep new buds forming.  Dead and yellowing leaves may be removed as well.  Dig up the primroses when spring is over if you have hot summers or if your winters are warm.  Primroses will not survive high temperatures, and they need winter chilling to rebloom the next year.Primrose plants can be grown indoors if you are able to provide them with cool night temperatures of 50-60 degrees F., filtered sun, and moist soil.  Daytime temperatures must remain below 80 degrees.  Whenever they have finished blooming in the house, it is best to plant them into the garden.You can complement your primrose garden in so many ways.  Primroses look great next to spring blooming trees and shrubs, including azaleas, camellias, and some spring bulb bloomers.  Additionally, primroses look extremely attractive when planted in containers and baskets.  Gardens with Shakespearean themes always contain primroses, as they were mentioned in a few of his plays and sonnets.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted on: 24 December 2012 | 11:49 pm

Lenten Rose

Sometimes called Christmas Rose, lenten rose is a remarkably robust perennial which is a show-stopper with lustrous leaves and big white flowers that bloom in shade from December until April year after year.  Its deep green foliage and long-lasting flowers make it ideal in shaded gardens and containers.  It is an evergreen perennial that performs so well it rates highly for its ease of care.  Its delightful, nodding blossoms in late winter are framed by glossy foliage.  Before winter ends, lenten roses bring the garden to life with up to two months of lovely flowers.  Any garden that gets winter sun followed by summer shade is a good home for lenten roses which have the unusual talent of blooming in late winter with flowers that survive ice and snow.  Because the blossoms face downward, you will enjoy this plant most if you grow it in raised beds, along steps, or atop a retaining wall.  Lenten rose blossoms make good cut flowers if you sear the stem ends to hold in the sap.  The blossoms also look particularly nice whenever floating in a bowl.Their color period is from late winter to spring.  Plants often bloom for two to three months.  Flowers are shades of pink, purple, burgundy, green, white, yellow, red, or bicolors.   They are one to two inches wide with rose-like bracts and centers comprised of pincushion clusters of stamens.  Leaves are glossy green leaflets up to four inches long, usually with serrated edges.  The average size of a plant is about 12 to16 inches tall and wide.Their growth rate is considered medium, although plants need 2 to 3 years to attain mature size.  Moreover, they need 5 years to flower from seed.  For this reason, buy the largest plants you can find and afford.  Shade garden plants, such as azaleas, hostas, and heucheras, make good companions for lenten roses.  For pretty color layers, try camellias and azaleas with lenten rose because these two plants bloom at the same time as do the roses.  Plant the camellia as the tallest layer, with the azaleas as the mid-layer, and border the grouping with lenten roses.Lenten roses appreciate light or partial shade, or winter sun and summer shade.  Medium watering is required after establishment.  They like water once or twice a week during the growing season, depending upon their environment.For planting in the garden, use any fertile, well-drained soil enriched with organic matter.  They require good drainage. Space them about 14 inches on center by measuring from the center of each plant.  They can be planted closer in containers.  Lenten roses from containers can be planted at any time.  Fall is best because they establish more easily in cooler weather.  Lenten roses reseed, and young plants can be dug and moved to new locations in late summer after the bloom season ends.  Flowers from seedlings are not necessarily the same color as their parents' flowers.Allow lenten rose foliage to grow freely until it yellows and dies back which varies from early to late summer, depending upon its site and climate.  Cut back faded foliage at the soil line.  Fertilize them at planting time and each spring with a timed-release product.  Less fertilizer is needed with the application of more organic material.Lenten roses are available now at your local garden center.                                                       

Posted on: 23 December 2012 | 8:09 pm

Pansies and Violas

Due to their cold tolerance, pansies and violas are among the best flowers to plant for the fall- to-spring season.  They rate highly because of their high performance and ease of care.Pansies and violas love winters in Texas, and are the most popular annuals for our cool months.  They are grown primarily as winter annuals in Texas.  Pansies come in either solid colors or with blotches in the center.  The solid ones show up better from a distance.  Pansies with smaller flowers generally bloom more than those with larger blooms.Violas are closely related; however, their performance is different.  They generally recover from extreme cold faster than pansies and bloom in light shade to full sun, whereas  pansies should be planted in full sun.  Violas have smaller flowers that are not as showy as pansies when viewed from a distance; however, they cover themselves with flowers all winter long.  The "Sorbet" and "Penny" series perform well in the Dallas-Fort Worth area.  The general color period is most of the fall, winter, and spring.  Although they stop blooming and do not look very happy whenever temperatures drop to the mid-twenties, they bounce back quickly whenever the temperatures rise.Pansies do well planted in containers or in the ground.  However, they feel the cold more if planted in containers.Pansy leaves are dark green and scalloped on short stems that stay close to the ground.  The flowers range from 1 inch wide mini pansies to 2 inches wide "Panolas".  Large flowered varieties have four inch wide, flat blossoms.  Pansies come in a variety of colors such as white, yellow, blue, pink, purple, orange, red, and a variety of bicolors.  Their average size is 6 inches tall and wide.  Their growth rate is considered medium.  Their average lifespan is from 6 to 7 months.The Dallas Arboretum relies on pansies in the following series:  "Bingo", "Delta", "Crown", "Panola", "Clear Sky", "Skyline", and "Baby Bingo".  However, most of the pansies and violas carried at your local gargen center grow very well in this area.Pansies companion very well with the attractive and colorful foliage of ornamental cabbage and kale.  Their long bloom period includes late winter and early spring when few other annuals flower.  Try them with other bulbs that bloom at the same time, such as iris and Asiatic lilies.Plant clumps of Asiatic lilies and iris in back as the tallest layer and border with the pansies, and you will have blooms from February to May.  Two or three out of four of these plants should flower at the same time.Space your pansies about 6 to 8 inches on center, measuring from the center of each plant, and closer if planted in containers.  For the garden, plant in any fertile, well-drained soil that has been enriched with organic matter.  Use only good quality potting soil for containers.  Fertilize at planting time with a timed-release product.  Pansies grow best when they have developed good roots before soil temperatures drop into the 40's.  Therefore, it is best to plant in mid to late October.  I have learned that at the Fort Worth Botanic Garden, they cover pansies and violas with row covers whenever temperatures fall into the 20's and then remove them when the temperatures come back into the low 30's.Supplemental water is often needed after planting in the fall whenever dry weather often prevails.  After Thanksgiving, winter rains are usually sufficient for pansies.  However, cold spells often dry out plants, so water before the really cold weather threatens if the soil is dry.  They, of course, require more water whenever grown in containers.  Be careful of root rot which can develop if plants are kept too wet.You do not need to remove the dead blooms from pansies; however, doing so will help the plants bloom longer and stronger.  Pull up your pansies in mid-April because they cannot tolerate hot weather.Planting pansies and violas is a must whenever it comes to having color in your garden during the winter months.  Pictured below are some of the numerous color combinations that are available at your local garden center.                                   

Posted on: 14 December 2012 | 5:30 pm